Climbing:
Lisa's Falls
Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS This is
only a guide, you are responsible for your own safety. For a more detailed
guide, purchase the Ruckman's
Guide to the Wasatch.
If you want to climb on great granite with a pleasant
surrounding Lisa's Falls is tough to beat. A waterfall splits the crag in
half with climbs on either side.
The base of the crag seems to change
every year with rockfall and avalanches scouring the landscape. If slabs
are your forte you will like Lisa's, most of the climbs are on less then
vertical terrain. Have your foot technique prepared, most of the bolted
climbs involve smearing on tiny nubbins and seams with nothing for the hands.
Lisa's Falls Left and Sweet spot are both rated R and are best
top-roped. You can gain access to the chains by scrambling up the trail to
the west. But be careful this area has been the scene of accidents before.
Sweep Left is a great
route that is continuously difficult for the first
60 feet. The first crux seems to get harder every year as the rock gets
more glazed.

Flee
Flicker first bolted route to the east of the waterfall. This is
one of those routes where you must trust your feet. The climbing gets much
easier after the first bolt
Fleeting Glimpse is
the next bolted line. This route has gotten much less intimidating this
year as there is a new bolt. There is a bolt between the first and what
used to be the second. This route previously had groundfall
potential. I have led the route in it's old form and welcome the new bolt!
Lisa's
Falls Right is a great gear route! Follow the crack then ledges to
the first set of chains. Then traverse right and up into the dihedral that
leads to the second set of chains. A single rope rappel will get you down
to the first set of chains another rappel and you're on the ground.
Additional
Resources
Shopping
Books
Utah
Atlas and Gazetteer
Climber's
Guide to American Fork/Rock Canyon
Rock
Climbing Idaho's City of Rocks (Falcon Guide)
Classic
Rock Climbs No. 1: Joshua Tree National Park, CA
Climber's
Guide to Devil's Lake
Rock
Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)
Mountaineering
: The Freedom of the Hills
A
Climber's Guide to the Teton Range (3rd Edition)
Desert
Rock I : Rock Climbs in the National Parks
Desert
Rock II : Wall Street to the San...Desert Rock: Wall Street/San Rafael
Swell
Desert Rock III: Moab to Colorado National
Monument
Jackson Hole : A Sport Climbing and Bouldering
Guide
Selected
Climbs in the Desert Southwest: Colorado and Utah
Rock
Climbing Utah (FalconGuide)
Magazines
Climbing
Rock: Australia's Climbing Magazine
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